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Why Does Margiela Remain Iconic While Staying Low-Key?
FASHION / 2025-10-14
While luxury brands chase the spotlight and emerging designers rise, Maison Margiela has never blindly followed trends. Instead, it occupies its unique space in fashion with “eccentric chic.” Classics like Tabi Boots and the Cloud Bag consistently perform well each season, raising the question: without celebrity endorsements or heavy advertising, how does Maison Margiela maintain its enduring popularity? IFCHIC takes you behind the scenes to explore the brand’s charm, iconic pieces, and design philosophy
Origins: From Martin Margiela to John Galliano
Founded in Paris in 1988, Maison Margiela became famous as the “anonymous designer.” He envisioned the brand not as a single person’s work, but as the product of a collective team. This philosophy of depersonalization created MMM’s consistently understated yet highly recognizable style.
In 2008, Maison Margiela left the brand, leaving the team and future creative leadership to continue the legacy. John Galliano took over in 2015, maintaining the brand’s eccentric spirit while infusing his own theatrical, glamorous language. While current creative director Glenn Martens is still exploring his vision, Galliano’s era remains the best lens to understand Maison Margiela’s allure.
Deconstructing Labels: White Tags and the Number Philosophy
Maison Margiela avoids flashy logos. Initially, garments carried only a white rectangular tag stitched at four corners, symbolizing “substance over surface.” On the brand’s 10th anniversary, the “0–23” number system was introduced, each representing a different line, becoming a cultural symbol of the brand.
0 Collection Artisanale: Couture line, handcrafted, often one-of-a-kind
1 Women’s Mainline: Core womenswear, avant-garde cuts and deconstruction
2 Intangible Products: Launched in 2025, art and cross-disciplinary projects
3 Fragrances: Inspired by everyday moments
4 A Wardrobe for Women: Archival revival, versatile styling
6 MM6: Casual, accessible, younger audience
8 Eyewear Collection: Includes collaborations with Gentle Monster
10 Men’s Mainline: Emphasis on tailoring, material mix
11 Accessories: Bags, belts, small leather goods
12 Fine Jewellery: Collaboration with Damiani, surreal proportions
13 Objects & Catalogs: Books, home goods, archives
14 A Wardrobe for Men: Menswear archival revival
22 Shoes Collection: Iconic Tabi Boots and shoes
Deconstructionism: The Eccentric Charm from Tabi to Cloud Bag
The core of Maison Margiela’s design language is deconstructionism: dismantling existing garment structures and reassembling them to challenge conventional aesthetics.
Tabi Boots: Inspired by traditional Japanese split-toe socks, they break conventional shoe structure and have become an iconic item for the brand.
Glam Slam Bag: Using puffy and asymmetric cuts, it subverts traditional handbag silhouettes, bringing playfulness and theatricality.
These pieces do not rely on logos but immediately convey Margiela’s DNA. Designers use deconstruction to make items both wearable and artistic, a key reason for the brand’s long-standing popularity.
From Creative Runway to Everyday: MM6 and Young Audience
Maison Margiela isn’t only about couture and eccentric runway art; it extends its design philosophy into daily life:
MM6 Line: Offers accessible, everyday wear, allowing fans to experience Margiela’s design in their daily life.
Shoes and Accessories: Tabi Boots, Glam Slam Bag, and other items become styling highlights, showcasing personality even off the runway.
This strategy of combining creativity and wearability keeps the brand highly popular and attracts a new generation of followers.
Maison Margiela: Understated Yet Timeless
In the fast-changing fashion world, Maison Margiela integrates eccentricity, experimentation, and deconstructionism into each piece with understated yet highly recognizable style. Even without celebrity endorsements or heavy advertising, the brand captivates through design and concept.
From the classic stance of Tabi Boots and the playful silhouette of the Cloud Bag to Galliano-era extravagant shows, Maison Margiela continually reminds us: fashion is not about following trends, but daring to innovate and be different.
For IFCHIC fans, Maison Margiela is more than individual items—it’s a lifestyle: understated, personal, playful yet profound. Next time you step out, try a Maison Margiela piece to experience the allure of deconstructed fashion and showcase your own eccentric chic.